How to Set Your Draw Weight

Tools and supplies

Tools

• Allen wrench (bow's limb-bolt size)
• Bow scale (hanging or digital draw-weight scale)

Steps

1. Know which bow you have — and what actually changes the weight

   On a compound bow, peak draw weight is adjustable within the bow's rated range by turning the two limb bolts. On a recurve, the marked draw weight is fixed by the limbs (rated at a 28-inch draw) and is NOT changed by a bolt — you change it by swapping limbs or, slightly, by your own draw length. If you have a recurve, skip the bolt steps below.

2. Find the bow's rated weight range first

   Look on the limbs or in the manual for the bow's peak-weight range (for example, a model marked '60#' typically adjusts down about 10 pounds from peak). Never plan to exceed the stamped maximum, and never back the limb bolts out past the safe minimum — going beyond either end can damage the bow or let a limb come loose under load.

3. Seat the limb bolts to maximum, then count your turns

   On a compound, turning the limb bolts clockwise (in) increases weight toward peak; counter-clockwise (out) decreases it. Snug both bolts down to the fully-seated maximum, then back each out the same amount to your starting point, counting turns so both sides stay equal.

4. Turn BOTH limb bolts equally

   Always adjust the top and bottom limb bolts by the same number of turns (and partial turns). Equal bolts keep the limbs balanced and the cams in time; uneven bolts can throw off tiller, nock travel, and tune, and can be unsafe. Make small, matched changes — a quarter or half turn per side at a time.

5. Stay inside the safe range

   Keep both bolts between fully seated (maximum) and the manufacturer's minimum number of turns out. If you need a weight below that minimum, the bow is not rated for it — choose lighter limbs or a different bow rather than backing the bolts out too far, which risks the limbs shifting or coming off the bow.

6. Verify the actual weight on a bow scale

   The bolts give you an approximate setting, not a guaranteed number. Hook a bow scale to the string and draw smoothly to your full draw to read the real peak weight in pounds. Re-check after any adjustment, and confirm both limbs ended up even.

7. Recheck tune and confirm with a coach

   Changing draw weight can shift your tune and your arrow spine match. After a change, re-confirm nocking point and arrow flight, and have a coach or pro shop verify the bow is safe and in time — especially before a large change or if you are new to adjusting your own bow.

Two very different bows, two different methods

How you “set” draw weight depends entirely on the type of bow, and confusing the two is the most common mistake here.

On a compound bow, peak draw weight is adjustable. The two limb bolts thread into the riser and load the limbs; turning them in raises the peak weight toward the bow’s maximum, turning them out lowers it. You can move the weight up or down within the bow’s rated range, then verify the real number on a bow scale.

On a recurve bow, the marked draw weight is fixed by the limbs. It is rated at a 28-inch draw and is not changed by any bolt. The only ways the weight changes are by swapping to lighter or heavier limbs or, to a small degree, by your own draw length — a recurve gains or loses roughly 2 to 3 pounds per inch of draw above or below the 28-inch rating. So a 30-pound-rated limb set drawn to 29 inches pulls a couple of pounds more than its marked weight.

The steps above cover both. If you shoot a recurve, the limb-bolt steps do not apply to you.

Setting a compound’s weight safely and evenly

Two rules keep this safe and keep your bow shooting well.

Stay inside the rated range. Find the bow’s peak-weight range on the limbs or in the manual before you touch the bolts. Never plan to exceed the stamped maximum, and never back the bolts out past the manufacturer’s minimum number of turns. Past the minimum, a limb can shift or come loose under the force of a draw, which is both a tuning problem and a safety problem. If you need a weight lower than the bow’s range allows, the answer is lighter limbs or a different bow — not over-backing the bolts.

Turn both limb bolts equally. Adjust the top and bottom bolts by the same number of turns and partial turns, every time. Equal bolts keep the limbs balanced and the cams in time; unequal bolts change the tiller and nock travel and degrade your tune. Work in small, matched increments — a quarter or half turn per side — rather than one big move on one side.

A reliable way to set a known weight is to seat both bolts fully (maximum), then back each out the same counted number of turns to your target. Counting turns is what guarantees the two sides stay even.

Why you verify on a bow scale

The limb bolts give you an approximate setting, not a guaranteed pound figure — manufacturing tolerances and your exact draw mean the real number can differ from what a turn count suggests. A bow scale removes the guesswork: hook it to the string, draw smoothly to your full draw, and read the actual peak weight in pounds. Re-check after every adjustment, and confirm that both limbs ended up even rather than one bolt doing more of the work.

For the exact peak-weight range, the number of turns of adjustment your specific bow allows, and its minimum safe setting, follow your bow’s owner’s manual or the manufacturer’s chart — those values vary by model, and this guide will not invent them for you.

When to bring in a coach or pro shop

Changing draw weight can move your tune and change the arrow spine your setup needs, so after any change, re-confirm your nocking point and arrow flight. Before a large change, or any time you are new to adjusting your own bow, have a coach or pro shop check that the bow is in time, the limbs are seated, and the setup is safe. An in-person check is the right call whenever you are unsure — it is far cheaper than a damaged limb or a habit built on a poorly set bow.